Most restoration projects are simple vehicles to begin with, so it isn't very difficult to know what's what. For those of us who don't know all the tricks or don't like to write things down I think a book is very helpful. I recommend one from the Chilton's Automotive Guide series. These guides are available for almost any car, so finding one for your project should not be a problem. They feature blown up diagrams of the complicated systems of the car like the distributor, under-dash wiring, and e

ngine internals. This can be very helpful in those frustrating times when there are parts strewn from wall to wall in no particular order. Mine was an integral part of the process on my 1969 Chevy project.

Most people who are new to the project car scene tend to begin the project with cosmetics such as paint, interior vinyl and carpeting, and chromed accessories. This will not pay off in the end. The place to start is with the engine and suspension. In doing this at the beginning, you will minimize the chance of damaging expensive cosmetics and having to redo your work unnecessarily. For example, I was doing some major engine work after my car had been painted, and a slight shift of the hydraulic engine lift spelled disaster for a section of my newly coated fender. If the suspension components of your car are badly worn, consider replacement. A good way to check for broken or worn components in the front suspension is to lift the frame of the car until the front wheels leave the ground; then put one hand on each side of the tire and try and move it back and forth in the same motion that the steering mechanisms turn it. If it moves more than a quarter of an inch in either direction, the main bearings should be replaced. As far as the other components in the front as well as the back, a visual inspection for breakage is all that is needed. A-arms, control arms, and pivots should all be re-packed with a high quality lithium grease, and detailing the undercarriage with some rubberized undercoating and flat black paint will impress people at the car shows. The shock absorbers on certain antique cars can be very rare, so if you are lucky enough to find a set it is a good idea to get it if the original shocks are bad. My Chevy is a popular project car, and shocks were easily obtained. A 1935 DeSoto Airstream like the one my father is restoring could require some searching, however. When you bounce the car up and down and let go, the car should only bounce one more time. If it bounces two or more times, the shocks should be replaced.

The engine is the heart of every car. This is where most car restorers get creative and express their desire for power. Of course, if you are following the true definition of restoration you will make everything look and function as it did when it left the factory. It is not uncommon, however, to add and improve a few things under the hood. Engines vary so much from car to car that I will not talk about them all. Most restorable cars from the 1930's to the 1950's had

Some common words found in the essay are:
Chevrolet V-8, Automotive Guide, Restoration Whenever, DeSoto Airstream, Hershey Pennsylvania, project car, car car, systems car, gaping holes, components front, touch-up paint,
Approximate Word count = 1707
Approximate Pages = 7 (250 words per page double spaced)