f Jones Beach. Like TOBAY, barrier beaches are usually the result of a sandbar which is built up and develops as an islands. They are continuously gaining and losing sand, and slowly move landward. This is known as barrier island migration. "Sand from the ocean side of the barrier is transported by water and wind toward the backside of the island so that the whole landform gradually changes its location" (Leatherman 47). The constant movement of sediment from the front of the beach to the back is known as rollover. IF the barrier beaches did not move, they would eventually be covered by water. In a way, barrier island migration acts against the effects of erosion. (McCormick 23) Wave action is a major cause of beach erosion. The strength of these waves is determined by the weather. "Waves are created by the wind blowing over the surface of the water, transferring the energy of motion from air to water" (Press 421). Calm weather creates smaller waves which approach the shoreline at regular intervals. Stormy weather creates large waves which move at high speeds. The power if wind creates the power the waves. If week winds prevail, small ripples form. However, if heavy winds persist, large, destructive waves are created. "The height of waves increase as the wind speed increases, the wind blows for longer times, and the distance over which the wind blows is increased" (Press 421). The breaking of waves is an important aspect of wave action. Since waves greatly effect erosion and the condition of our beaches, it is important to understand how certain waves "break". As a wave moves closer to a shoreline they break. The wave breaking action occurs when the wave becomes so steep it can no longer support its weight. "Gently sloping bottoms cause waves to break further away from the shore, and steeply sloping bottoms make waves break closer to the shore" (Press 423). Breaking waves fit the coastline carrying sand away and breaking up solid rocks. After the wave breaks, its height is reduced. This spreads more water into direct contact with the sand. This is when erosion takes place. When the water spreads across the sloping front of the shoreline, it is called swash. Swash creates a backwash of water flowing back into the ocean. This backwash carries sand along with it. "Fine sand can be moved by wave action in w

Some common words found in the essay are:
Beach TOBAY, Barrier Beaches, York Times, American Beachgrass, American Beahgrass, Growing Island, Jetties Groins, Times Critics, GEOTUBE GEOTUBE, YORK TIMES, wave action, york times, barrier beaches, sand dunes, waves break, barrier island, beach erosion, waves approach shoreline, shoreline stabilization, tides waves, carry sediment, aspect wave action, weather creates waves, barrier island migration,
Approximate Word count = 1563
Approximate Pages = 6 (250 words per page double spaced)