Why Ee Surf -- speech for communications
--It is not like scoring a touchdown or hitting a home run. There is no other feeling like it. There is definitely something more spiritual to it than simply another game with rules. I am a surfer. --Surfing is not just another game or past time -- I can picture that wave right now. --looking out in the horizon, that wall of water slowly rolling it's way toward shore. --Excitement fills the air with the sight of the incoming set --all of the guys in the lineup start paddling out to deeper water so that they don't get caught in the path of the broken wave. -- I paddle out with the group but stay just on the inside, I try to separate myself from the rest of the pack hopefully I will find myself alone on the wave. --Once in know I'm in position I start to paddle, harder, my head aims down my legs start to kick a little --I can feel the board start to gain momentum and head down the wave. --this split second between popping and paddling is the most intense part of surfing for me. -- I kick my legs out and pop onto my board.
--the most common and most dangerous thing that anyone entering the ocean is not having respect for her power. --it's a release from everything you have to do in real life --it is difficult for me to analyze really --On the other side of the spectrum, The typical long board is about 9 feet long and 20 inches wide and weighs about 15 pounds. --The typical short board is about 6 feet long and 18 inches wide weighing about 6 pounds. --I can only attempt to describe it as living a regular life with a job, family, school, but having this little special something to always turn to , the thing that makes the life of a surfer special is this little jewel hidden in the back of your mind of a wave.
Some common words found in the essay are:
Surfing Introduction, Communications Speech, pounds --on, --it's release, inches wide,
Approximate Word count = 792
Approximate Pages = 3 (250 words per page double spaced)
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