--Surfing is not just another game or past time

-- I can picture that wave right now.

--looking out in the horizon, that wall of water slowly rolling it's way toward shore.

--Excitement fills the air with the sight of the incoming set

--all of the guys in the lineup start paddling out to deeper water so that they don't get caught in the path of the broken wave.

-- I paddle out with the group but stay just on the inside, I try to separate myself from the rest of the pack hopefully I will find myself alone on the wave.

--Once in know I'm in position I start to paddle, harder, my head aims down my legs start to kick a little

--I can feel the board start to gain momentum and head down the wave.

--this split second between popping and paddling is the most intense part of surfing for me.

-- I kick my legs out and pop onto my board.

--the most common and most dangerous thing that anyone entering the ocean is not having respect for her power.

--it's a release from everything you have to do in real life

--it is difficult for me to analyze really

--On the other side of the spectrum, The typical long board is about 9 feet long and 20 inches wide and weighs about 15 pounds.

--The typical short board is about 6 feet long and 18 inches wide weighing about 6 pounds.

--I can only attempt to describe it as living a regular life with a job, family, school, but having this little special something to always turn to , the thing that makes the life of a surfer special is this little jewel hidden in the back of your mind of a wave.

Some common words found in the essay are:
Surfing Introduction, Communications Speech, pounds --on, --it's release, inches wide,
Approximate Word count = 792
Approximate Pages = 3 (250 words per page double spaced)